The Fashion Potential
With the right support and attention to detail, Oman’s fashion industry has the potential to make its mark in the GCC
In the 2006 Hollywood film The Devil Wears Prada, Miranda Priestly (Meryl Streep), who is the head of a top fashion magazine gives a dressing down to her assistant Andy Sachs (Anne Hathaway) who said she didn't know about 'fashion stuff'. In what was one of the most poignant scenes in the film, Miranda explains in a few words the effort and investment that went behind a seemingly simple thing as a blue sweater, precisely a ‘cerulean sweater’. And how people like Andy do not find it in themselves to appreciate the work that went behind the clothes that they so casually choose from a retail store.
The fashion industry has always been associated with celebrities and the rich. Most people tend to disassociate themselves from the term fashion claiming that they wear what they find comfortable and affordable. But what they don't realise is that even the most commonplace apparel was given form by the creative mind of a fashion designer who might have spend many hours and days to perfect its look and finish.
The fashion industry is a multi-billion dollar sector employing over 4mn people in various fields – design, manufacturing, distribution, marketing, retailing, advertising, communications, publishing and consulting. The sartorial sector is flourishing in the GCC region, especially the Islamic clothing industry that deals with apparels such as abayas and jalabiyas.
According to consultancy firm Bain and Company, the luxury fashion and design sectors are worth more than US$14.7bn across the Gulf alone, with the UAE accounting for US$6.26bn of that total.
A study by Dubai Chamber of Commerce and Thomson Reuters reveals that spending on clothes by Arabs is expected to grow from US$224bn in 2012 to US$322bn by 2018. The Islamic clothing industry is expected to comprise approximately 11.2 per cent of global spending by 2018, according to the study.
The sector in Oman is in its nascent stages, but with proper assistance, it has the potential to contribute significantly to the economy and open up employment opportunities.
Carving a niche
The general attitude towards fashion in Oman wasn't much different from what was described earlier, but perspectives have changed significantly in the last decade with the growth in the economy and hard work of enterprising designers who have carved a niche for themselves in the region. “The term ‘fashion designing’ had no meaning in Oman 10-15 years ago. People used to rely on local tailors to make their clothes and those who could afford it bought from abroad during their travels. But now things have changed,” says Nawal al Hooti, a pioneer in Oman's fashion industry who inspired many women to take up designing as a profession.
A major factor that is promoting the industry in the sultanate is the economic growth and the rise in job opportunities for Omani women. The availability of disposable income among women has in turn boosted the fashion industry. The market is more traditional compared to Dubai but what has changed is that people are now seeing value in spending on good quality designer clothing.
“The economic growth of the country has certainly empowered Omani women. They are more motivated and have strong positions in government, private and family business. We have also seen a visible increase in Omani women entrepreneurs which reflects their determination in making a mark in our society.” says Nadia al Zakwani, who owns and operates the Muscat-based fashion label Endemage along with her sister, Lubna.
The spread of Internet and social media have also played an important part in developing the industry. Designers rely on social media channels such as Facebook, Twitter, Instagram etc to market their products and communicate with their customers.
Amal Abdullah al Raisi, creative and managing director of Omani fashion label Dar Al Aseel, says, “The Internet and social media have made it much easier for businesses to contact clients and market their products economically. It also has changed peoples perception and taste as they are becoming more aware of what's happening in fashion around the world. Now customers appreciate the work they see at our boutiques.”
Guillermo Mariotto, creative director of the world renowned Maison Gattinoni from Italy, who visited Muscat last month to deliver a masterclass on fashion, was very impressed by the country's dress culture. He says, “Here the story is about colours. It is amazing the way Omani men and women pick up colours for their clothing. Men here use colour much differently from anywhere else in Arabia. The way they match the shades of their turbans with the lining and tassels of their dishdashas is wonderful. We have taken notes from men's fashion here, which are very impressive.”
He added that Oman has a rich tradition and potential and by giving a little more attention to finishing, detail and the quality of material, the fashion industry here can make a mark of its own in the GCC.
Omani designers like Nawal, Amal and Nadia have made their presence felt in the GCC through innovative designs as well as balancing Omani traditions and modern tastes. The Omani labels offer Islamic clothing as well as western wear. They also enjoy patronage from Europe.
Abayas and jalabiyas are most in demand in Oman, says Amal, followed by evening wear and bridal collections. Western wear collections are more in demand in Dubai due to the cosmopolitan attributes of the city.
Muscat Fashion Week
An event that changed the view about Oman's fashion industry was Muscat Fashion Week. The show, which was launched in 2011, put Oman in the global fashion map.
Organised by the government, this event brought celebrated international designers and leading fashion media to Muscat, offering local designers a chance to learn and experience nuances of the industry. The event, which was much appreciated by fashion experts and the public alike, came to an abrupt stop after 2013.
Malik al Hinai, director of Bait Al Barandah Museum and the organiser of Muscat Fashion Week, says, “Our aim behind organising Muscat Fashion Week was to develop Muscat as a hub of Arab fashion. There was a lot of interest among the public for such events. I ran the Muscat Fashion Week for three years from its inception in 2011.
Sadly, the event has been stopped for the time being due to budgetary reasons, but I hope it will restart in the future.
“We had raised the bar with MFW, not to the level of London or Paris, but much different from how fashion shows were organised in Oman. The event attracted big names in fashion across the globe including designers from Arabia and India. People from reputed fashion magazines applauded the event and said that this is the way to go.”
Amal also hopes that the event will be restarted in the future. “It is a pity thar the Muscat Fashion Week was stopped after three successful years. It was one of the best things that happened in Oman's fashion industry. It helped to catch the attention of the international fashion fraternity, making them aware about the presence of the industry in Oman.
“I hope the authorities will restart the event as it will help more Omani designers to go in the right direction in their career. They will be able to learn aspects of this industry by watching leading regional and international designers attending the event.”
The event was pivotal in turning around the life of a few designers in Oman, like Endemage. Impressed by their collection showcased at the 2013 event, a Dubai-based fashion consultancy entered into a partnership with this Omani label and helped them venture out of the sultanate. Now, Endemage has two boutiques in the UAE and enjoys the patronage of a huge clientele across the GCC and Europe.
The event also helped upcoming designers and students to interact with leading fashion designers and to improve their craft. Hinai adds,”My role was to look at fashion at an educational point of view as well. We involved colleges in the event and invited students to help designers backstage. This event provided opportunities for students to interact and work closely with top designers and learn from them.”
Business realities
Finding good quality material in Oman is a big challenge for designers. Most of them source materials from Dubai and from Europe. They also have to strike a balance between creativity and business.
Amal says, “Being creative and being a manager are two different things. Controlling costs is a major challenge. There are expenses such as labour, rents etc, but managing costs of each design is the biggest hurdle. When you are working on a design, you don't want to compromise on quality and creativity, but at the same time one also has to think about the competition and keep the price factor in mind. You cannot let your imagination fly as it will also raise the cost.”
Though the country is pushing for Omanisation in every sector, the fashion industry has its limitations especially when it comes to tailors and embroiders. Almost all of the tailors employed in designer houses are from India, Pakistan and the Philippines because they are skilled in handling intricate needle work.
Amal says, “Our production team is mainly composed of expatriates due to their experience and professionalism. We have Omani staff managing our public relations and accounts.”
Another issue that the industry is facing is the lack of professional models and fashion photographers. Nadia says, “Though there are a couple of good model agencies here, we don't have enough professional models. Most of the models currently available here are college students who are not professionally trained. We have good nature and corporate photographers in Oman, but fashion photography is a specialised segment and sadly we don't have people and studios here that meet international standards. So in order to maintain international standards and quality, we get all our look books and editorial images done in the UAE.”
Designing future
From a time when there were no fashion designers, Oman has come a long way. Now colleges offer fashion designing courses and many Omani women are training to enter the industry. Established designers are keen to help these youngsters to get on their feet and offer opportunities like internships and store space to showcase designs.
Nawal says, “Students who have just completed their studies might not have an idea how to enter this business. One of their main concerns would be getting customers. I would like to take this opportunity and offer them a space to display their clothes in my store as long as the pieces meet our standards. They can use the space in my store for three months for free. Later on, they can continue for an additional three months by paying a fee.”
Amal is also keen on hiring Omani fashion graduates. She says, “Fashion students in Oman are showing great promise and I would like to offer them a chance to share their creativity with us.”
This industry has the potential to generate revenue and create more job opportunities and thereby contribute significantly to the country's economy. But conservative attitude among investors and government is hampering the sector's growth. Most of the designers rely on family support to establish their business. A change in perspective can work wonders.
Amal says, “Most people in the society still don't understand how the fashion business works. This is a sector that has great growth potential as it can generate revenue for the country as well as create job opportunities. I believe it would really help the sector if the government forms a dedicated department to manage the fashion industry.”
Nadia believes that going global is essential for growth, but people should be ready to take risks. “Designers have to take a risk and venture abroad to understand how the market works. They need to further learn and gather experience from the international market. Fashion is a dynamic business, so we need to keep up with trends constantly.”
She sums up, “Fashion is not a frivolous activity. It is a muliti-billion dollar global industry that employs millions of people across the world and it is a sector that can create revenue and jobs for Omanis, especially women. So, investing in developing manpower and resources for this industry will definitely reap benefits for the country.”
